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Preservation Briefs

Some of the web versions of the Preservation Briefs differ somewhat from the printed versions. Many illustrations are new and in colour; Captions are simplified and some circuitous charts are omitted. To order difficult copies of the Briefs, see Printed Publications.

PRESERVATION BRIEFS

47

Two men on ladders painting woodwork on the exterior of a brick house.

Maintaining the Exterior of Small and Medium Size Historic Buildings

Sharon C. Park, FAIA

Preservation is defined as "the act or procedure of applying measures necessary to sustain the existing form, integrity, and materials of an historic property. Work, including preliminary measures to protect and stabilize the holding, generally focuses upon the ongoing maintenance and repair of celebrated materials and features rather than extensive replacement and new construction."1

Maintenance helps preserve the integrity of historic structures. If existing materials are regularly maintained and deterioration is significantly reduced or prevented, the integrity of materials and workmanship of the building is protected. Proper maintenance is the most cost effective method of extending the life of a edifice. As shortly as a edifice is synthetic, restored, or rehabilitated, physical care is needed to slow the natural process of deterioration. An older edifice has already experienced years of normal weathering and may take suffered from fail or inappropriate work too.

Disuse is inevitable but deterioration can accelerate when the edifice envelope is not maintained on a regular basis. Surfaces and parts that were seamlessly joined when the building was constructed may gradually become loose or asunder; materials that were in one case sound brainstorm to show signs of weathering. If maintenance is deferred, a typical response is to rush in to set up what has been ignored, creating boosted problems. Work done on a crisis level can favor inappropriate treatments that alter or damage historic material.

In that location are rewards for undertaking certain repetitive tasks consistently according to a gear up schedule. Routine and preventive care of building materials is the most constructive fashion of slowing the natural process of deterioration. The survival of celebrated buildings in good condition is primarily due to regular budget and the preservation of celebrated materials.

Well-maintained properties tend to suffer less damage from storms, high winds, and even small earthquakes. Keeping the roof audio, armatures and attachments such every bit shutters tightened and secured, and having joints and connections functioning well, strengthens the ability of older buildings to withstand natural occurrences.

Over time, the cost of maintenance is substantially less than the replacement of deteriorated historic features and involves considerably less disruption. Stopping decay before it is widespread helps continue the scale and complication of work manageable for the owner.

This Preservation Brief is designed for those responsible for the care of pocket-size and medium size historic buildings, including owners, belongings administrators, in-house maintenance staff, volunteers, architects, and maintenance contractors. The Brief discusses the benefits of regular inspections, monitoring, and seasonal maintenance piece of work; provides general guidance on maintenance treatments for celebrated building exteriors; and emphasizes the importance of keeping a written tape of completed work.

Getting Started render to height ▲

Understanding how building materials and structure details function will aid avoid treatments that are made in an attempt to simplify maintenance but which may as well result in long-term impairment. Information technology is enticing to read nearly "maintenance costless" products and systems, particularly waterproof sealers, rubberized paints, and constructed siding, simply there is no such thing as maintenance costless when it comes to caring for historic buildings. Some approaches that initially seem to reduce maintenance requirements may over fourth dimension actually advance deterioration.

Hand polishing a brass doorknocker that is surrounded with blue painters' tape.

Figure i. Maintenance involves selecting the proper treatment and protecting side by side surfaces. Using painter's tape to mask effectually a contumely doorknocker protects the painted door surface from damage when polishing with chemical compounds. On the other hand, hardware with a patinated finish was not intended to be polished and should simply exist cleaned with a clammy cloth.

Outside edifice components, such as roofs, walls, openings, projections, and foundations, were often constructed with a multifariousness of functional features, such as overhangs, trim pieces, drip edges, ventilated cavities, and painted surfaces, to protect against water infiltration, ultraviolet deterioration, air infiltration, and pest infestation. Construction assemblies and joints betwixt materials allow for expansion and contraction and the diffusion of wet vapor, while keeping water from penetrating the building envelope. Older buildings use such features finer and care must be taken to retain them, fugitive the temptation to reduce air infiltration or otherwise alter them.

Monitoring, inspections, and maintenance should all exist undertaken with safety in mind. Likewise normal safety procedures, it is important to be cognizant of wellness issues more commonly encountered with older buildings, such as pb-based paint, asbestos, and bird droppings, and to know when information technology is necessary to seek professional services (meet sidebar).

Original building features and examples of special adroitness should be afforded actress intendance. The patina or crumbling of celebrated materials is often function of the charm and graphic symbol of historic buildings. In such cases, maintenance should avert attempts to brand finishes wait new past over-cleaning or cladding existing materials. As with any product that has the potential to harm historic materials, the selection of a cleaning procedure should ever involve testing in a discreet location on the building to ensure that it volition non abrade, fade, streak, or otherwise damage the substrate (Effigy 1).

Cautions During Maintenance Piece of work

All maintenance work requires attention to rubber of the workers and protection of the historic construction. Examples include the post-obit:

  • Care should exist taken when working with historic materials containing lead-based pigment. For example, damp methods may be used for sanding and removal to minimize air-borne particles. Special protection is required for workers and advisable rubber measures should be followed.
  • Materials encountered during maintenance work, such as droppings from pigeons and mice, tin cause serious illnesses. Appropriate safe precautions need to exist followed. Services of a licensed contractor should exist obtained to remove large deposits from attics and crawlspaces.
  • Heat removal of paint involves several potential safety concerns. Showtime, heating of lead-containing paint requires special condom precautions for workers. Second, even at low temperature levels, heat removal of paint runs the take a chance of igniting debris in walls. Heat should exist used only with great caution with sufficient coverage past smoke detectors in work areas. Work periods demand to exist timed to allow monitoring later completion of paint removal each twenty-four hour period, since debris volition most oftentimes smolder for a length of fourth dimension before breaking out into open up flame. The employ of torches, open up flames, or high heat should exist avoided.
  • Many chemical products are chancy and volatile organic compounds (VOC) are banned in many areas. If immune, appropriate respirators and other safety precautions are essential for employ.
  • Personal protection is important and may require the employ of goggles, gloves, mask, closed-toed shoes, and a hard hat.
  • Electric service should be turned off before inspecting a basement after a flood or heavy rain, where at that place is high standing h2o.

Cyclical Maintenance Checklist (Figure 2)

Cyclic Building Inspection Checklist: Horse Stable Inspection date: 04/24/05
Building Feature Material(s) Condition Description Maintenance Action Required Work Done
ROOF:
Covering Clay tile Ii slipped tiles Reattach tiles five/4/05
Painted metal continuing seam Slight corrosion; blistering paint on metal roof section Sand and repaint area that is peeling half-dozen/8/05
Flashing Painted metallic Flashing in expert condition N/A N/A
Gutters/Downspouts 6" half round galvanized metallic Gutter sagging; downspouts OK Realign gutter and put on new hanger strap v/4/05
Flush out downspouts 5/5/05
Chimneys No masonry chimney N/A N/A N/A
Attachments/Penetrations Metal vent stack and weathervane Vent stack hood has some peeling paint; vane OK Sand and repaint vent stack 6/8/05

Figure 2. All personnel associated with a historic construction need to become acquainted with how existing building features should announced and during their daily or weekly routines expect for changes that may occur. This volition help augment the regular maintenance inspection that will occur at specified intervals based on seasonal changes, employ, and other factors. A segment of an inspection course showing the roof elements of a equus caballus stable is shown. The inspection report should exist kept forth with the maintenance plan and other fabric in notebook, file or electronic form

Maintenance Programme, Schedules and Inspection return to top ▲

Organizing related work into a written ready of procedures, or a Maintenance Plan, helps eliminate duplication, makes it easier to coordinate work attempt, and creates a system for prioritizing maintenance tasks that takes into business relationship the most vulnerable and character-defining elements.

The kickoff time a property owner or manager establishes a maintenance programme or program, it is advisable to have help from a preservation architect, preservation consultant, and/or experienced contractor. Written procedures should outline step-past-step approaches that are custom-tailored to a building. No thing how small the property, every historic site should take a written guide for maintenance that can be every bit simple equally:

  1. Schedules and checklists for inspections;
  2. Forms for recording work, blank base plans and elevations to be filled in during inspections and upon completion of piece of work;
  3. A set of base-line photographs to be augmented over fourth dimension;
  4. Current lists of contractors for aid with complex issues or in case of emergencies;
  5. Written procedures for the appropriate intendance of specific materials, including housekeeping, routine care, and preventive measures;
  6. Record-keeping sections for work completed, costs, warranty cards, sample paint colors, and other pertinent material.

This information can be kept in one or more formats, such as a iii-ring binder, file folders, or a computer database. Information technology is of import to keep the files current with completed work forms to facilitate long-term evaluations and planning for future work (Figure 2).

Proper maintenance depends on an organized plan with work prescribed in manageable components. Regular maintenance needs to be considered a priority both in terms of time allotted for inspections and for allotment of funding.

Maintenance work scheduling is generally based on a variety of factors, including the seriousness of the problem, type of piece of work involved, seasonal appropriateness, product manufacturer'due south recommendations, and staff availability. There are other variables also. For example, building materials and finishes on southern and western exposures will oftentimes weather faster than those on northern or eastern exposures. Horizontal surfaces facing skyward commonly require greater maintenance than vertical ones; in regions with moderate or heavy rainfall, wood and other materials in prolonged shadow are field of study to more rapid decay.

Maintenance costs tin exist controlled, in role, through careful planning, identification of the amount of labor required, and thoughtful scheduling of piece of work. Maintenance schedules should take into account daily and seasonal activities of the property in order to maximize the uninterrupted time necessary to consummate the work. Institutions by and large need to budget annually between 2 and 4 percent of the replacement value of the building to underwrite the expense of total building maintenance.2 Use of trained volunteers to undertake maintenance can help reduce costs.

Exterior inspections commonly proceed from the roof downwards to the foundation, working on i elevation at a time, moving around the building in a consistent management. On the interior, the attic, inside surfaces of exterior walls, and crawlspaces or basements should exist examined for signs of potential or existing problems with the edifice envelope.

The following nautical chart lists suggested inspection frequencies for major features associated with the building'south exterior, based on a temperate four-season climate and moderate levels of annual rainfall. For areas of dissimilar climate conditions and rainfall, such as in the more barren southwest, the nature of building decay and frequency of inspections will vary. For buildings with sure inherent weather condition, heavy use patterns, or locations with more extreme weather conditions, the frequency of inspections should be contradistinct accordingly.

Note: All building features should exist inspected after any meaning weather event such as a severe rainstorm or unusually high winds.

Survey observations tin exist recorded on a standardized report course and photographs taken as a visual tape. All scarce conditions should be recorded and placed on a written schedule to be corrected or monitored.

INSPECTION FREQUENCY Chart
Feature Minimum Inspection Frequency Season
Roof Annually Spring or fall; every 5 years by roofer
Chimneys Annually Fall, prior to heating season; every 5 years past mason
Roof Drainage 6 months; more than frequently as needed Before and after moisture flavour, during heavy rain
Exterior Walls and Porches Annually Leap, prior to summertime/fall painting season
Windows Annually Spring, prior to summertime/fall painting flavour
Foundation and Grade Annually Spring or during moisture season
Building Perimeter Annually Winter, after leaves have dropped off trees
Entryways Annually; heavily used entries may merit greater frequency Spring, prior to summer/autumn painting flavour
Doors half dozen months; heavily used entry doors may merit greater frequency Spring and fall; prior to heating/cooling seasons
Attic 4 months, or after a major storm Before, during and after wet season
Basement/Crawlspace 4 months, or after a major storm Before, during and afterward rain season

Edifice Components return to elevation ▲

For purposes of this give-and-take, the principal exterior surface areas have been divided into v components and are presented in social club from the roof down to grade. While guidance for inspection and maintenance is provided for each component, this data is very general in nature and is non indeed to be comprehensive in telescopic. Examples have been selected to address some typical maintenance needs and to help the reader avoid common mistakes.

Roofs/Chimneys

The roof is designed to keep h2o out of a building. Thus one of the principal maintenance objectives is to ensure water flows off the roof and into functional gutters and downspouts directly to grade and away from the building—and to prevent water from penetrating the attic, exterior walls, and basement of a edifice. (Notation: Some buildings were designed without gutters and thus assessments must be made as to whether rain water is being properly addressed at the foundation and perimeter grade.) Keeping gutters and downspouts cleared of debris is usually high on the listing of regular maintenance activities (Figure 3). Flashing around chimneys, parapets, dormers, and other appendages to the roof also merit regular inspection and appropriate maintenance when needed. The material covering the roof—forest shingles, slate, tile, cobblestone, canvass metal, rolled covering—requires maintenance both to ensure a watertight seal and to lengthen its service life; the type and frequency of maintenance varies with the roofing material. Older chimneys and parapets as well require inspection and maintenance. With the exception of cleaning and minor repairs to gutters and downspouts, nigh roof maintenance work will necessitate use of an exterior contractor.

Inspection

Man on a ladder using a hose to clean out gutters on a brick building with a slate roof.

Figure three. Keeping gutters make clean of droppings can be one of the nigh important cyclical maintenance activities. On this small one-story addition, a garden hose is beingness used to flush out the trough to ensure that the gutter and downspouts are unobstructed. Gutters on most pocket-sized and medium size buildings can exist reached with an extension ladder and a garden hose. Photo: Bryan Blundell.

The performance of gutters and downspouts tin can exist safely observed from the basis during rainy weather and when winter ice has collected. Binoculars are a useful tool in helping to identify potential covering problems from the same safe vantage point. Conscientious observation from course helps to place maintenance needs between shut-up inspections past an experienced roofer. Observation from the building interior is also important to identify possible leak locations. When admission tin can exist safely gained to the roof, it is important to article of clothing shoes with slip-resistant soles and to utilise safety ropes. Depending on the nature of the roof, some common conditions of concern to look for are:

  • sagging gutters and split downspouts;
  • debris accumulating in gutters and valleys;
  • overhanging branches rubbing against the roof or gutters
  • plant shoots growing out of chimneys;
  • slipped, missing, cracked, bucking, delaminating, peeling, or broken roof coverings;
  • deteriorated flashing and failing connections at any intersection of roof areas or of roof and next wall;
  • bubbled surfaces and moisture ponding on flat or depression sloped roofs;
  • evidence of h2o leaks in the attic;
  • misaligned or damaged elements, such every bit decorative cresting, lightning rods, or antennas; and
  • croaky masonry or dislodged chimney caps.

Maintenance

  • Remove leaves and other debris from gutters and downspouts. Apply a ladder with a brace device, if necessary, to keep the ladder from crushing the gutter. Use a garden hose to flush out troughs and downspouts. Patch or repair holes in gutters using products such as fiberglass tape and epoxy adhesive in metal gutters. Avert asphalt compounds since acidic material tin can crusade further deterioration of metal gutters.
  • Correct misaligned gutters and conform, if necessary, and so that h2o flows to drains and does non swimming. If gutter edges sag, consider inserting wooden wedges betwixt the fascia lath and the back of the gutter to add back up. Seal leaking seams or pinholes in gutters and elbows.
  • Broom sweep branch or leaf debris away from shingles, valleys, and crickets, peculiarly around chimneys and dormers.
  • Where mechanical equipment is mounted on apartment or low-sloped roofs, ensure that access for maintenance can be provided without dissentious the roof. Clean out trapped leaves and debris from around equipment base of operations and consider adding a protective walkway for access.

Close-up of cracked grey roof tile.

Effigy four. Damage to roofs often requires immediate attending. As a temporary measure, this damaged roof tile could be replaced with a chocolate-brown aluminum sheet wedged between the existing tiles. Photo: Chad Randl.

  • Remove biological growth where it is causing erosion or exfoliation of roofing. Use depression-pressure garden hose h2o and a natural or nylon scrubbing brush to remove such growth, scraping with a plastic putty knife or like forest or plastic tool as needed on heavier buildup. Almost growth is acidic and while at that place are products designed to kill spores, such as diluted chlorine bleach, they should exist avoided. Even fairly weak formulas can still crusade unexpected colour changes, efflorescence, or over-splash damage to plantings or surfaces below the roof. Where advisable, trim adjacent tree branches to increase sunlight on the roof since sunlight volition deter farther biological growth.
  • Re-secure loose flashing at the dormers, chimneys or parapets. Clean out old mortar, lead, lead wool, or fastening material and brand certain that flashing is properly inserted into reglet (slot) joints, taking care non to impairment the substrate. Avoid installing new footstep flashing every bit a single metal component where multiple pieces are required to provide proper waterproofing. Likewise avoid attaching step flashing with mastic or sealant. Properly re-bed all step flashing. Use advisable non-ferrous flashing metal or painted metal if needed. Since cap, footstep, valley, cricket, and apron flashings each take specific overlap and extension requirements, replacement flashing should match the existing cloth unless there has been a proven deficiency.
  • Repoint joints in chimneys, parapet, or balcony capping stones using a hydraulic lime mortar or other suitable mortar where the existing mortar has eroded or croaky, allowing wet penetration. In general, a mortar that is slightly weaker than the adjacent masonry should be used. This allows trapped moisture in the masonry to migrate out through the mortar and not the masonry. Spalled masonry is often show of the previous use of a mortar mix that was too hard.

Man looking at a decorative wood element projecting upward from a slate roof.

Figure 5. The use of a sealant to close an exposed joint is not e'er an constructive long-term solution. Where this decorative wood chemical element connects to the slate roof, the sealant has failed within a curt time and a proper metallic flashing collar is beingness fitted instead. Photo: Bryan Blundell.

  • Use professional person services to repair chimneys and caps. Avert the use of mortar washes on masonry since they tend to crack, allowing moisture to penetrate and promoting masonry spalling. Repoint masonry with a durable mortar that is slightly weaker than the adjacent masonry. Slope the masonry mortar cap to insure drainage away from the flue. If a chimney rain cap is installed, ensure acceptable venting and frazzle.
  • Equally a temporary measure, slip pieces of non-corrosive metal flashing under or betwixt damaged and missing roofing units until new slate, shingles, or tile can be attached. Repair cleaved, missing or damaged roofing units with ones that match. Follow covering supplier and industry guidance on inserting and attaching replacement units (Figure 4). Avoid using temporary asphalt patches as it makes a proper repair difficult later.
  • For long-term preservation of wooden shingle roofs coated with a preservative, recoat every few years post-obit the manufacturer's recommendations. Be enlightened of environmental considerations.
  • Scrape and repaint selected areas of coated ferrous metal roofing equally needed; repaint on a regularly scheduled ground. Ferrous metallic roofs can last a long time if painted regularly. Alkyd coatings are generally used on metal roofs; be sure to wash and properly prepare the area beforehand. Ecology regulations may restrict the utilise of sure types of paints. Apply the coating system in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Prepare the surface prior to application to obtain good adhesion with the prime number glaze. Apply both a prime coat and a topcoat for skillful bonding and coverage; select primer and topcoat products from the aforementioned manufacturer.
  • Re-secure loose decorative elements, such as finials and weathervanes. Seek professional person advice if decorative elements exhibit considerable corrosion, wood rot, or structural instability. Pocket-sized surface cracks may benefit from a flexible sealant to go along moisture out; sealants have a limited life and require conscientious inspection and periodic replacement (Figure 5).

Man using a wooden mallet to test the stucco on the foundation of a building.

Figure half dozen. Stucco applied to an outside wall or foundation was intended to function as a watertight surface. Unless maintained, rainwater will penetrate open joints and cracks that may occur over time. A spa lied section of stucco indicates some damage has occurred and a wooden mallet is being used to tap the surface to determine whether the firsthand stucco has lost adhesion. Photograph: Bryan Blundell.

Exterior Walls return to top ▲

Exterior walls are designed to help prevent water infiltration, control air infiltration, and serve as a barrier for unwanted animals, birds and insects. The primary maintenance objective is to go along walls in sound condition and to prevent water penetration, insect infestation, and needless decay (Figure 6). Depending on the materials and construction methods, walls should take an fifty-fifty appearance, gratuitous from unwanted cracks, and should be able to shed excess wet. Where surfaces are significantly misaligned or where in that location are bulging wall sections or cracks indicative of potential structural problems, seek professional guidance every bit to the crusade of distress and appropriate corrective measures. Wood-frame construction by and large will require more frequent maintenance than buildings constructed of brick, rock, or terra cotta (Figure 7).

Inspections

Information technology is all-time to audit walls during dry equally well as moisture weather. Await for moisture patterns that may appear on the walls later on a heavy or sustained rainfall or snowfall, recording any patterns on elevation drawings or standard recording forms. Monitoring the interior wall for moisture or other potential problems is of import besides. Expect for motion in cracks, joints, and around windows and doors and try to establish whether move is seasonal in nature (such as related to shrinkage of wood during dry conditions) or signs of an ongoing problem. For moderate size buildings, a ladder or mechanical lift may be necessary, though in some cases the use of binoculars and observations made from windows and other openings will exist sufficient. When examining the walls, some common atmospheric condition of business concern to await for are:

Corner of a building with wood shingles that have not been stained to match the surrounding shingles.

Effigy 7. One of the advantages of wood shingles as a wall covering is that private shingles that are damaged can hands be replaced. On this highly exposed corner, worn shingles have been selectively replaced to assist safeguard against h2o damage. The new shingles will be stained to match the existing shingles.

  • Misaligned surfaces, bulging wall sections, cracks in masonry units, diagonal cracks in masonry joints, spalling masonry, open up joints, and nail popping;
  • Evidence of wood rot, insect infestation, and potentially damaging vegetative growth;
  • Deficiencies in the zipper of wall mounted lamps, flag pole brackets, signs, and similar items;
  • Potential issues with penetrating features such as water spigots, electric outlets, and vents;
  • Excessive damp spots, often accompanied by staining, peeling paint, moss, or mold; and
  • General paint problems (Figure eight).

Maintenance

  • Trim tree branches abroad from walls. Remove ivy and tendrils of climbing plants past get-go cutting at the base of the vine to allow tendrils to dice dorsum, and afterwards using a plastic scraper to dislodge droppings and an advisable digging tool to dislodge and remove root systems. Be cautious if using a commercial chemical to accelerate root decay; follow safety directions and avoid contact of chemicals with workers and wall materials.
  • Wash exterior wall surfaces if dirt or other deposits are causing damage or hiding deterioration; extend scheduled times for cleaning for cosmetic purposes to reduce frequency (Figure ix). When cleaning, use the gentlest means possible; start with natural bristle brushes and water and but add together a balmy phosphate-gratuitous detergent if necessary. Utilize not-abrasive cleaning methods and depression-pressure water from a garden hose. For most building materials, such as wood and brick, avoid abrasive methods such as mechanical scrapers and high-pressure h2o or air and such additives equally sand, natural soda, water ice crystals, or rubber products. All abrasives remove some portion of the surface and power-washing drives excessive wet into wall materials and even into wall cavities and interior walls. If using a mild detergent, two people are recommended, one to castor and one to prewet and rinse. When graffiti or stains are present, consult a preservation specialist who may use poultices or mild chemicals to remove the stain. If the entire edifice needs cleaning other than described to a higher place, consult a specialist.

Peeling paint on wood siding.

Figure 8. The paint on the siding of this south-facing wall needs to be scraped, sanded, primed and repainted. Postponing such piece of work volition pb to further pigment failure, require greater preparatory costs, and could even result in the need to supervene upon some siding. Photograph: Charles Fisher.

  • Repoint masonry in areas where mortar is loose or where masonry units have settled. Resolve cause of cracks or failure before resetting units and repointing. Rake out joints by paw, generally avoiding rotary saws or drills, to a depth of 2 ½ times the width of the joint (or until sound mortar is encountered), to brand sure that fresh mortar volition non pop out. Repointing mortar should be lime-rich and formulated to be slightly weaker than the masonry units and to match the celebrated mortar in color, width, appearance, and tooling. Off-the-shelf pre-mixed cement mortars are not appropriate for most historic buildings. Avoid use of joint sealants in identify of mortar on vertical masonry wall surfaces, as they are not breathable and can lead to moisture-related damage of the adjacent masonry (Figure 10).
  • Right areas that trap unwanted moisture. Damaged bricks or stone units can sometimes exist removed, turned around, and reset, or replaced with salvaged units. When using traditional or contemporary materials for patching wood, masonry, metallic, or other materials, ensure that the materials are compatible with the substrate; evaluate forcefulness, vapor permeability, and thermal expansion, also as appearance.
  • When patching is required, select a uniform patch material. Gear up substrate and install patch material co-ordinate to manufacturer's recommendations; respect existing joints. Modest or shallow surface defects may non require patching; large or deep surface defects may be better addressed by installation of a dutchman unit of measurement than by patching.

Man using a brush to remove debris from a paneled wood door and door surround.

Figure 9. To assistance extend a repainting cycle, dirt and spider webs should exist removed before permanent staining occurs. In this example, a natural bristle brush and a soft damp material are existence used to remove insect droppings and refresh the surface appearance.

  • Where a damaged area is too large to patch, consider replacing the section with in-kind material. For stucco and adobe materials, traditional patching formulas are recommended.
  • When temporarily removing wood siding to repair framing or to tighten corner boards and loose trim, reuse the existing siding where possible. Consider using stainless steel or high strength aluminum nails every bit appropriate. Putty or make full blast holes flush with siding prior to repainting. Back-prime whatsoever installed wood with one coat of primer and glaze end grain that might be exposed with two coats of primer.
  • Prepare, prime, and spot pigment areas needing repainting. Remember that preparation is the key to a successful long lasting paint job. Ensure beforehand the compatibility of new and existing paints to avert premature paint failure. Remove loose paint to a sound substrate; sand or gently rough surface if needed for a practiced pigment bond; wipe clean; and repaint with appropriate primer and topcoats. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for application of coatings, including temperature parameters for pigment application. Use top quality coating materials. Mostly pigment when sun is not shining directly onto surfaces to be painted.
  • Remove deteriorated caulks and sealants, clean, and reapply appropriate caulks and sealants using capitalist rods as necessary. Follow manufacturer's instructions regarding preparation and installation.
  • Right deficiencies in whatsoever wall attachments such as awning and flag pole anchors, improperly installed electrical outlets, or loose water spigots.

Close-up of a painted brick wall with some spalled bricks.

Figure 10. Repointing of masonry should commonly be approached equally repair rather than maintenance work in role considering of the need for a skilled mason familiar with historic mortar. In this example, a wet condition was not corrected and the employ of a waterproof coating and off-the-shelf Portland cement mortar trapped water and resulted in further damage to these 19th century bricks. Photo: NPS files

Openings return to top ▲

Exterior wall openings primarily consist of doors, windows, storefronts, and passageways. The major maintenance objectives are to retain the functioning nature of the opening and to proceed in sound status the connexion betwixt the opening and the wall in order to reduce air and water infiltration.

Inspection

Wall openings are typically inspected from inside likewise as out. Examinations should include the overall cloth condition; a cheque for unwanted water penetration, insect infiltration, or creature entry; and identification of where openings may non be properly functioning. Frames should be checked to brand sure they are non loose and to ascertain whether the intersection between the wall and the frame is properly sealed. Secure connections of glazing to sash and between sash and frames are too important. Particular attention should be placed on exposed horizontal surfaces of storefronts and window frames as they tend to deteriorate much faster than vertical surfaces. Inspections should identify:

  • loose frames, doors, sash, shutters, screens, storefront components, and signs that present safety hazards;
  • slipped sills and tipped or cupped thresholds;
  • poorly fitting units and storm assemblies, misaligned frames, drag marks on thresholds from sagging doors and storm doors;
  • loose, open, or decayed joints in door and window frames, doors and sash, shutters, and storefronts;
  • loose hardware, cleaved sash cords/chains, worn sash pulleys, croaky awning, shutter and window hardware, locking difficulties, and deteriorated weatherstripping and flashing;
  • broken/croaky glass, loose or missing glazing and putty;
  • peeling paint, corrosion or rust stains; and
  • window well debris accumulation, heavy bird droppings, and termite and carpenter ant damage.

Man using a tool to repair a window.

Figure 11. Glazing putty should be maintained in sound condition to prevent unwanted air infiltration and water harm. New glazing putty should be pulled tight to the glass and edge of the wood, creating a clean bevel that matches the historic glazing

Maintenance

  • Replace broken or missing glass as soon as possible; in some cases cracked glass may exist repaired using specialty glues. For historic crown glass and early on cylinder glass, a conservation approach should be considered to repair limited cracks. Where panes with a distinct appearance are missing, specialty glass should be obtained to match, with sufficient inventory kept for time to come needs. Avoid using mechanical devices to remove old putty and match historic putty bevels or details when undertaking work.
  • Reputty window glazing where putty is deteriorated or missing. Have care in removing putty so as not to fissure or pause old drinking glass or damage muntins and sash frames. Re-glaze with either traditionally formulated oil putties or modern synthetic ones, making sure to properly bed the glass and secure with glazing points (Effigy eleven).
  • Clean window glass, door glazing, storefronts, transom prism lights, garage doors, and storm panels using a balmy vinegar and h2o mixture or a non-alkali metal commercial window cleaner. Be cautious with compounds that contain ammonia as they may stain brass or bronze hardware elements if not totally removed. When using a squeegee blade or sponge, wipe wet corners with a soft dry cloth. Avoid high-pressure washes.
  • Clean handles, locks and like hardware with a soft, damp cloth. Apply mineral spirits or commercial cleaners very sparingly, as repeated utilise may remove original finishes. Near metal cleaners include ammonia that can streak and stain metal, so it is important to remove all cleaning residue. Polished hardware subject to tarnishing or oxidation, particularly doorknobs, often benefits from a thin glaze of paste wax (carnauba), mitt buffed to remove extra residue. Avoid lacquer finishes for high use areas, as they require more than extensive maintenance. Patinated finishes should not be cleaned with any chemicals, since the subtle aged appearance contributes to the edifice's character.
  • Remove and make clean hardware before painting doors and windows; reinstall later on the paint has stale.
  • Tighten screws in doorframes and lubricate door hinges, awning hardware, garage door mechanisms, window sash bondage, and pulleys using a graphite or silicone type lubricant.
  • Check conditions stripping on doors and windows and adjust or supercede as necessary. Utilise a durable blazon of weather stripping, such as spring metal or high quality synthetic textile, avoiding common castor and seedling or pile weather stripping that require more frequent replacement.
  • Adjust steel casement windows equally needed for proper alignment and tight fit. Avoid additional weather condition stripping as this may lead to further misalignment, creating pathways for air and h2o infiltration.
  • Check window sills for proper drainage. Make full cracks in forest sills with a wood filler or epoxy. Follow manufacturer's instructions for training and installation. Do not embrace over a wood sill with metal panning, as it may trap moisture and promote decay.
  • Repair, prime, and repaint windows, doors, frames, and sills when needed. Make clean out putty debris and paint chips from windows using a wet paper towel and dispose of debris prior to repair or repainting. Take appropriate additional precautions when removing lead-based pigment. Sand and prepare surfaces and use material-specific patching compounds to fill any holes or areas collecting moisture (Figure 12). Avoid leaving exposed wood unpainted for any length of time, as calorie-free will degrade the wood surface and lead to premature failure of subsequent paint applications. Immediately prime steel sash afterwards paint is removed and the substrate prepared for repainting.
  • Suit woods sash that bind when operated. Apply beeswax, paraffin, or like material to tracks or sash runs for ease of movement. If sash are loose, replace worn parting beads. Sash runs traditionally were unpainted between the stop and parting bead; removing subsequent paint applications will frequently assistance improve sash performance.
  • Right perimeter cracks around windows and doors to prevent water and air infiltration. Use traditional material or mod sealants as appropriate. If fillers such as lead wool have been used, new wool can be inserted with a thin bract tool, taking intendance to avoid damage to adjacent trim. Reduce backlog air infiltration around windows past repairing and lubricating sash locks so that windows close tightly.
  • Remove debris beneath window ac units and ensure that water from units does not drain onto sills or wall surfaces below (Figure 13). Removal of air conditioning units when non in season is recommended.
  • Adapt storm panels and clean weep holes; cheque that cry holes at the bottom of the panels are open then water will not be trapped on the sill. Outside applied storm windows are best fastened using screws and not tightly adhered with sealant. Utilize of sealant makes storm units difficult to remove for maintenance and can contribute to moisture entrapment if weep holes go chock-full.
  • Remove weakened or loose shutters and store for later on repair. Consider adding a zinc or painted metal meridian to shutters equally a protective cap to cover the wood'southward exposed stop grain. This will extend the life of the shutters.

Man painting a window.

Figure 12. Practiced surface preparation is essential for long lasting pigment. Scraping loose paint, filling blast holes and cracks, sanding, and wiping with a damp cloth prior to repainting are all important steps whether touching up small areas or repainting an entire characteristic. Ever use a manufacturer's best quality paint. Windows and shutters may need repainting every five to seven years, depending on exposure and climate.

Air conditioner in a window on a stone building, with discoloration below the air conditioner.

Effigy 13. Window air conditioning units tin cause damage to surfaces beneath when condensation drips in an uncontrolled manner. Drip extension tubes tin sometimes be added to directly the belch.

Contracting Maintenance and Repair Work

Many contractors are very proficient in using mod construction methods and materials; even so, they may not have the feel or skill required to carry out maintenance on historic buildings. The following are tips to utilise when selecting a contractor to work on your historic building:

  1. Go familiar with work washed on similar historic backdrop in your expanse so that you can obtain names of possible preservation contractors.
  2. Be as specific as possible in defining the scope of work yous expect to undertake.
  3. Enquire potential contractors for multiple references (3 to five) and visit previous work sites. Contact the building possessor or managing director and ask how the job proceeded; if the aforementioned piece of work crew was retained from start to finish; if the workers were of a consistent skill level; whether the projection was completed in a reasonable time; and whether the person would use the contractor once more.
  4. Be familiar with the preservation context of the piece of work to be undertaken. Employ the written procedures in your maintenance plan to assistance define the scope of piece of work in accordance with preservation standards and guidelines. Always asking that the gentlest method possible be used. Use a preservation consultant if necessary to ensure that the work is performed in an appropriate style.
  5. Asking in the contract proposal a detailed price estimate that clearly defines the work to be executed, establishes the precautions that will be used to protect adjoining materials, and lists specific qualified subcontractors, if any, to be used.
  6. Insure that the contractor has all necessary concern licenses and carries worker compensation.

Projections return to pinnacle ▲

Hand removing debris from the opening between slate and brick.

Figure 14. When inspecting connections between projections and the main edifice, wait for areas where birds, bees and pests may enter or nest. Birds take been nesting in this porch roof and the area is being cleaned of their debris. Where an opening exists, it may be necessary to cover it with a trim piece, screening, or sealant. Photo: Bryan Blundell

Numerous projections may exist on a historic building, such as porches, dormers, skylights, balconies, fire escapes, and breezeways. They are often composed of several dissimilar materials and may include an independent roof. Principal maintenance objectives include directing moisture off these features and keeping weathered surfaces in good condition. Secondary projections may include brackets, lamps, hanging signs, and similar items that tend to be exposed to the elements.

Inspection

In some cases, projections are essentially contained units of a building so must be evaluated advisedly for possible settlement, separation from the chief body of the building, and materials deterioration. Some electrical features may require inspection by a electrician or service technician. Common conditions of business organization to look for are:

  • damaged flashing or tie-in connections of projecting elements;
  • misaligned posts and railings;
  • deteriorated finishes and materials, including peeling paint, cupped and warped decking, wood deterioration, and chancy steps;
  • bear witness of termites, carpenter ants, bees, or animal pests (Figure fourteen);
  • damaged lamps, unsafe electrical outlets or deteriorated seals around connections;
  • loose marker plaques, sign, or mail service boxes; and
  • rust and excessive wear of structural, anchorage, and safety features of balconies and burn down escapes.

Maintenance

  • Selectively repair or supersede damaged roofing units on porches and other projections. Ensure adequate drainage away from the edifice. Repair flashing connections as needed; clean and seal open up joints as appropriate.
  • Secure any loose connections, such as on porch track or fire escapes.
  • Maintain ferrous metal components by following manufacturer's recommendation for cleaning and repainting. Remove rust and corrosion from porch handrails, balconies, fire escapes, and other metal features; ready, prime, and repaint using a corrosion-inhibitive coating system. Apply new primer earlier new corrosion sets in, followed by new topcoat. Take appropriate safety measures when dealing with existing lead-based paint and in using corrosion-removal products (Figure xv).

Railing painted black and with rust.

Figure 15. Metal projecting elements on a edifice, such as sign armatures and railings, are easily subject to rust and disuse. Proper surface training to remove rust is essential. Special metal primers and topcoats should exist use

  • Reattach loose brackets, lamps, or signs. With electric boxes for outlets or lighting devices, ensure that cover plates are properly sealed. Prime and paint metallic elements equally needed.
  • Keep porch decks and steps free from dust, dirt, leaf debris, and snow as soon at it accumulates using a broom or plastic blade shovel.
  • Repair areas of woods decay or other damage to railings, posts, and decorative elements. Repair with wood dutchman, wood putty, or epoxy filler, as appropriate; supersede individual elements every bit needed. Prime and repaint features when necessary and repaint horizontal surfaces on a more frequent basis.
  • Sand and repaint porch floorboards to go along weather surfaces protected. The exposed ends of porch floorboards are especially susceptible to decay and may need to be treated every year or two.
  • Carefully cut out damaged or buckled porch flooring and supplant with wood to friction match. Back-prime number new wood that is being installed; treat cease grain with wood preservative and pigment primer. Ensure that new wood is adequately kiln or air-dried to avert shrinkage and problems with paint adherence.
  • Repair rotted stair stringers; adjust class or add stone pavers at stair base to keep wooden elements from coming into direct contact with soil.
  • Consider durable hardwoods for replacement textile where beading, chamfering, or other decorative work is required in order to lucifer existing features beingness replaced. Although advisable for certain applications, pressure treated lumber is hard to tool and may inhibit paint adherence if non immune to weather prior to coating application.
  • Clean out any debris from carpenter bees, ants, termites, and rodents, particularly from under porches. Replace damaged woods and add screening or lattice to discourage rodents. Consider treating in a higher place ground features with a borate solution to deter termites and wood rot and repaint exposed surfaces.

Foundations and Perimeter Grades return to summit ▲

The foundation walls that penetrate into the ground, the piers that support raised structures, and the basis immediately around a foundation (known as class) serve important structural functions. To assist sustain these functions, information technology is important that there is practiced drainage around and abroad from the edifice. The maintenance goal is to prevent moisture from inbound foundations and clamber spaces and damaging materials shut to the form, and to provide ventilation in clammy areas.

Inspection

Inspections at the foundation should exist done in conjunction with the inspection of the downspouts to ensure that water is beingness discharged a sufficient distance from the building perimeter to avoid excessive dampness in basements or crawl spaces. In addition, clamber spaces should exist adequately vented to deter mold and decay and should exist screened or otherwise secured against animals. Look for:

Brick wall with mildew where the wall meets the ground.

Figure sixteen. This chronically wet area has a mildew bloom brought on by estrus generated from the air-conditioning condenser unit. The dampness could exist caused be a clogged roof gutter, improper grading, or a leaking hose bibb.

  • depressions or grade sloping toward the foundation; standing water after a storm;
  • material deterioration at or well-nigh the foundation, including loss of mortar in masonry, rotting wood clapboards, or settlement cracks in the lower sections of wall;
  • evidence of creature or pest infestation;
  • vegetation growing close to the foundation, including trees, shrubs and planting beds;
  • bear witness of moisture damage from backyard and garden in-footing sprinkler systems;
  • evidence of moss or mold from damp conditions or poorly situated downspout splash blocks (Figure 16); and
  • blocked downspout drainage boots or clogged areaway grates.

Maintenance

  • Remove leaves and other debris from drains to prevent accumulation. Disassemble drain grates from paved areas and extract clogged debris. Affluent with a hose to ensure that there is no blockage. Apply a professional drain service to articulate obstructions if necessary.
  • Conduct annual termite inspections. Promptly accost termite and other insect infestations. Utilise only licensed company for treatment where needed.
  • Go on the class around the foundation sloping abroad from the edifice. Add soil to fill depressions peculiarly around downspouts and splash blocks. Make sure that soil does not come up besides close to wooden or metal elements. A half-dozen" separation between wooden siding and the grade is normally recommended.
  • Avoid employ of mulching material immediately around foundations as such fabric may promote termite infestation, retain moisture or change existing grade slope.
  • Reset splash blocks at the stop of downspouts or add together extender tubes to the end of downspouts as necessary (Figure 17).
  • Lubricate operable foundation vent grilles to facilitate seasonal use; paint every bit needed.
  • Manage vegetation effectually foundations to allow sufficient air move for wall surfaces to dry out during damp periods. Trim plantings and remove weeds and climbing vine roots. Exist conscientious not to scar foundations or porch piers with grass or weed cutting equipment. If tree roots appear to be damaging a foundation wall, consult an engineer too every bit a tree company.
  • Wash off discoloration on foundations acquired by splash-dorsum, algae, or mildew. Use plain water and a soft natural or nylon bristle castor. Unless thoroughly researched and tested beforehand on a discreet area of the wall, avoid chemical products that may discolor certain types of rock. If cleaning products are used, examination beforehand in a unimposing expanse; and avoid over splash to plantings and next building materials.
  • Selectively repoint unit masonry as needed. Follow guidance nether the wall section in regard to uniform mix, appearance, and texture for pointing mortar.
  • Avoid using salts for de-icing and fertilizers with a high acid or petro-chemical content around foundations, equally these materials can cause salt contamination of masonry. Use sand or organic materials without chloride additives that can damage masonry. Where table salt is used on icy walks, distribute it sparingly and sweep upward residual salt afterward walks have dried.
  • Utilise snowfall shovels and brooms to clean snow from historic paths and walkways. Avoid blade-type snow removers as they may bit or abrade cobblestones, brick, or stone paving. Note that employ of steel snowfall removal tools in areas where table salt-containing snow melters are used may event in rust staining from steel fragments left on the paving.

Sealants and Caulks

Using sealants and caulks has become a familiar part of exterior maintenance today. As the use of precision joinery and sure traditional materials to render joints more weathertight has waned in recent years, caulks and more often elastomeric sealants are used to seal cracks and joints to keep out moisture and reduce air infiltration. Where cracks and failing joints are indicators of a serious problem, sealants and caulks may be used equally a temporary measure out. In some cases they may really exacerbate the existing problem, such as by trapping moisture in adjacent masonry, and lead to more costly repairs.

Manufacturer's recommendations provide instructions on the proper awarding of caulks and sealants. Special attending should be placed on ensuring that the subsurface or joint is properly prepared and cleaned. Backer rods may be necessary for joints or cracks. Tooling of the caulk or sealant is unremarkably necessary to ensure contact with all edge surfaces and for a clean and consequent appearance.

Caulks more often than not refer to older oil resin-based products, which have relatively limited life span and limited flexibility. Contemporary elastomeric sealants are composed of polymer synthetics. Elastomeric sealants are more durable than caulks and have greater flexibility and wider application. Caulks and sealants can get maintenance bug, as they tend to deteriorate faster than their substrates and must be replaced periodically as a part of cyclical maintenance of the construction.

The selection criteria for caulks and sealants include blazon of substrate, adhesion properties, size and configuration of articulation, intended appearance/color and paintability, motion characteristics, and service life. Both i-part and two-part sealants are available; the latter require mixing equally role of the application process. Sealants are commonly used for a diversity of places on the exterior of a building such as effectually windows and doors, at interfaces between masonry and woods, between various wood features or elements, and at attachments to or through walls or roofs, such equally with lamps, signs, or exterior plumbing fixtures. Their effectiveness depends on numerous factors including proper surface preparation and awarding. Applications of sealants and caulks should be examined as office of routine maintenance inspection, irrespective of their projected life expectancy.

Installation of caulks and sealants often tin exist undertaken by site personnel. For large and more than complex projects, a contactor experienced in sealant installation may exist needed. In either case, the sealant manufacturer should be consulted on proper sealant choice, preparation, and installation procedures.

Detail of white downspout attached to a black pipe that is buried in the ground.

Figure 17. Extending downspouts at their base of operations is ane of the bones steps to reduce dampness in basements, crawl spaces and around foundations. Extensions should be buried, if possible, for aesthetics, ease of lawn intendance, and to avert creating a tripping risk. Photo: NPS files.

Summary and References return to tiptop ▲

Maintenance is the most of import preservation treatment for extending the life of a historic property. It is too the most price effective. Understanding the structure techniques of the original builders and the functioning qualities of older edifice materials, using traditional maintenance and repair methods, and selecting in-kind materials where replacements are needed will assist preserve the building and its historic character.

Maintenance tin exist managed in pocket-sized singled-out components, coordinated with other work, and scheduled over many years to ensure that materials are properly cared for and their life span maximized. A written maintenance programme is the near effective manner to organize, schedule, and guide the work necessary to properly treat a celebrated building. The maintenance plan should include a description of the materials and methods required for each task, as well equally a schedule for work required for maintenance of dissimilar building materials and components.

Celebrated house journals, maintenance guides for older buildings, preservation consultants, and preservation maintenance firms can assist with writing advisable procedures for specific properties. Priorities should exist established for intervening when unexpected damage occurs such as from cleaved water pipes or high winds. Worker safety should always be paramount. When piece of work is across the capabilities of in-house personnel and must be contracted, special efforts should be fabricated to ensure that a contractor is both experienced in working with historic buildings and utilizes appropriate preservation treatments.

A well-maintained holding is a more valuable belongings and one that volition survive every bit a legacy for generations to come.

Endnotes

ane. The Secretary of the Interior's Standards for the Treatment of Celebrated Properties. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Section of the Interior, National Park Service, 1995.

ii. Committee on Avant-garde Maintenance Concepts for Buildings et al, Committing to the Cost of Ownership: Maintenance and Repair of Public Buildings, Washington, D.C.: National Academy Printing, 1990.

Acknowledgements

Sharon C. Park FAIA, is the onetime Master of Technical Preservation Services, Heritage Preservation Services, National Park Service, in Washington, D.C. and currently is the Associate Director for Architectural History and Celebrated Preservation, Smithsonian Establishment.

The author wishes to give thanks Mike Seibert of the National Park Service for research on the project and the development of the charts; and Lauren Burge, AIA, of the business firm of Chambers, Murphy & Burge, and Michael Emerick, AIA, for sharing their expertise on maintenance and providing early guidance. Thanks get to Deborah Slaton of the firm of Wiss, Janney, Elstner Associates, Inc., for her insightful contributions and also to Rebecca Stevens of the National Park Service, Dominque Hawkins, AIA, of Preservation Design Partnership, J. Bryan Blundell of Dell Corporation, and Michael Scheffler and Kenneth Itle of Wiss, Janney, Elstner Associates, Inc. Also gratefully acknowledge for their assistance in the technical review and editing of this publication are Charles East. Fisher, Anne E. Grimmer, and Chad Randl of the National Park Service's Technical Preservation Services, and former staff Kay D. Weeks. Numerous other National Park Service staff and partners commented on the manuscript and made substantial contributions.

This publication has been prepared pursuant to the National Celebrated Preservation Act, as amended, which directs the Secretary of the Interior to develop and make bachelor information concerning historic properties. Comments almost this publication should be fabricated to: Charles Fisher, Technical Publications Programme Manager, Technical Preservation Services-2255, National Park Service, 1849 C Street, NW, Washington, D.C. 20240. This publication is non copyrighted and can exist reproduced without penalty. Normal procedures for credit to the writer and the National Park Service are appreciated. Unless otherwise noted, photographs in this Cursory are by Sharon C. Park, FAIA. Except for the writer'southward photos, the photographs used in this publication may non be used to illustrate other publications without permission of the owner.

June 2007

Reading List return to top ▲

Chambers, J. Henry. Cyclical Maintenance for Historic Buildings. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service, 1976,

Fisher, Charles Eastward. and Hugh C. Miller, eds. Caring For Your Historic Firm. New York, NY: Harry North. Abrams, Inc., 1998.

Fisher, Charles E., Deborah Slaton, and Rebecca Shiffer, eds. Window Rehabilitation Guide for Historic Buildings. Washington, D.C.: Historic Preservation Educational activity Foundation, 1997.

Fram, Marking. Well-Preserved: The Ontario Heritage Foundation'due south Manual of Principles and Exercise for Architectural Conservation. Erin, Ontario: The Boston Mills Press, 1988.

Gayle, Margot, David W. Look, AIA, and John Yard. Waite, FAIA. Metals in America'south Historic Buildings: Use and Preservation Treatments. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service, 1992.

Grimmer, Anne East. Keeping Information technology Clean: Removing Exterior Clay, Paint, Stains & Graffiti from Historic Masonry Buildings. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service, 1988.

Jester, Thomas C., ed. Twentieth Century Building Materials: History and Conservation. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill, 1995.

Leeke, John C. Practical Restoration Reports Compendium. Portland, ME: Historic HomeWorks, 2005.

London, Mark. Masonry: How to Care for Old and Celebrated Brick and Stone. Washington, D.C.: The Preservation Press, 1988.

Preservation Briefs. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service. The drove of Preservation Briefs assist owners and developers of celebrated buildings in recognizing and resolving common preservation, maintenance and repair problems.

Preservation Tech Notes. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service. The collection of Preservation Tech Notes provides guidance and case studies on the care and maintenance of historic structures.

Yapp, Bob and Rich Binsacca. About Your Firm with Bob Yapp. San Francisco, CA: KQED Books & Tapes, 1997.

Source: https://www.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve/briefs/47-maintaining-exteriors.htm

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